Eilien Kicks Off NYFW With an Interplanetary Bang

Tucked inside a huge industrial complex in Brooklyn shrouded in mile-high black curtains and the strangely soothing sounds of dark and ambient techno, EILIEN’s second collection and debut runway show was delivered as if dropped in from another planet for the viewing pleasure of a room of New York City’s edgiest fashion people.

The show kicked off on a strong note, with a pair of coats created with zip ties dipped in acid-yellow and jet black that moved like the luscious fur of some out-of-this-world animal in a trompel’oeil effect of sorts. What followed were a series of looks diverse in comfortability and casualness, but aligned in their design ethos of precise and often brutalist aesthetics built for an industrialized dystopian world. A myriad of structured dark wash denim pieces with immaculate contrast stitching were shown, paired with jackets and vests of the same construction, as well as thick ombre knits and slinky chainmail tops. Many a matching set made an appearance, with some of the more memorable being the tie-dye dipped neon numbers that varied from workwear to a body-hugging turtleneck and tank dress.

A good number of leisurely looks interrupted the more out-there garments, signaling that EILIEN is not just a brand for those of us extraterrestrials who like to show off at the club, but also for those who prefer to stay in at home or take a more laid-back approach to their streetwear. Unusually long hoodies and cropped tees were printed with a large blocky graphic in the shape of a distorted “M,” seemingly a staple of the brand. Many of the models wore oblong hats that resembled that which your grandpa might wear while fly-fishing, except in far more stylish cuts and colors. Whereas these hats might be a harder sell to the less experimental customer, the bags and especially jewelry presented on the runway were easy to imagine flying off shelves. Bags made in similar materials to the garments moved beautifully and complemented the looks without begging too much attention. The necklaces and earrings that adorned many of the models, which seem to be what have been the main feature on EILIEN’s site and social media to this point, are as strong as ever; sharp, hard, staple-like chains and solid rectangles of silver are sure to be best sellers, easy to work into a range of wardrobes.

By far the standouts of this collection, besides the faux fur coats, were the chainmail-like pieces. Earlier in the show we saw looser chainmail tops and dresses, which moved with seductive ease and didn’t leave much to the imagination. Towards the end of the show, though, was a different iteration on metalwork, stainless steel plates that are, according to the show notes, “laser cut” and “crocheted together” to form a far more defensive and intimidating kind of armature. This came together most successfully in the finale look: an incredible dress of metal plates that fit miraculously close to the body and came corseted together at the back, a human disco ball intended as “a glimmer of hope and optimism for a more promising future”.

EILIEN’s Collection 002 was an impressive and cohesive feat of design from start to finish, a testament to the “surgical precision” and “the existential struggle for… individual expression” outlined in the show notes. Designer Steven Zorrilla has both the clarity and creativity of vision, and the talent and attention to detail, to blast EILIEN into the stratosphere as a brand worth watching and investing in.